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At New Zealand Corneotherapy Institute, we pride ourselves on an individual and holistic approach to wellness. To ensure we can tailor the best treatment plan for your body, and your skin concerns, our clinicians require some information from you to review, prior to your in-clinic or phone consultation.

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Research

TEWL: The Hidden Leak in Your Skin Barrier

Image of skin on the back, closeup.

TEWL: The Hidden Leak in Your Skin Barrier.

And Why It Matters More Than Your Skincare Label.

Ever feel like your skin just won’t calm down?

You hydrate, you exfoliate (gently), you moisturise with care… and yet your skin feels dry, reactive, tight, or red. The issue might not be your product — it might be your skin’s barrier quietly leaking moisture faster than you can replace it.

That leak has a name: TEWL.

What Is TEWL?

TEWL stands for Transepidermal Water Loss. It refers to the amount of moisture your skin passively loses into the air every day.

Some water loss is normal — in fact, healthy skin loses around 4–10 g/m² per hour, or roughly 500 mL per day. But when the skin barrier is compromised, TEWL can increase dramatically — up to 30 times higher, according to clinical data (Klotz et al., 2022).

This elevated water loss signals barrier dysfunction — and often, inflammation just beneath the surface.

What Happens When TEWL Is Too High?

When TEWL rises, skin starts to unravel in quiet, uncomfortable ways:

  • Dryness and flaking
  • Burning or stinging when applying skincare
  • Chronic redness or sensitivity
  • Flare-ups of rosacea, acne, or perioral dermatitis
  • A constant feeling of “tightness,” even after moisturising

In my practice, high TEWL is one of the earliest signs that a client’s skin is not safe — it’s in a state of overexposure.

What Causes TEWL to Increase?

Many common skincare habits (even gentle ones) can increase TEWL:

  • Over-cleansing with foaming agents or micellar water
  • Use of harsh actives (retinoids, exfoliating acids)
  • Sun and wind exposure
  • Stress-induced cortisol spikes
  • Inflammatory skin conditions (e.g. eczema, rosacea)
  • Long-term barrier trauma from stripping facials or too many products

Even well-meaning skincare routines can trigger the spiral — especially when the skin is already vulnerable.

The Science Behind TEWL

A growing body of research confirms that TEWL is more than a number — it’s a clinical signal of how well the skin is functioning.

  • A 2021 JBI review identified TEWL as a central indicator of barrier health, especially in treating sensitive and inflamed skin.
  • A 2024 Japanese clinical study found that krill oil supplementation significantly reduced TEWL, improving skin elasticity and water retention in healthy adults.
  • Infant dermatology research consistently shows that trilipid barrier creams (containing ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids) reduce TEWL far more effectively than paraffin-based emollients.

Together, this science echoes what corneotherapists have always known:
Skin heals when the barrier is supported.

How We Treat TEWL at Corneotherapy NZ

In our practice, we use TEWL not just as a concept — but as a compass for your skin’s journey.

Step 1: Understand the cause

We explore your skin history, environment, stress load, and current routine.

Step 2: Gently calm the leak

We reduce exfoliation, avoid stripping actives, and apply trilipid-based, inflammation-aware topicals to support restoration.

Step 3: Track and nurture

Over time, we observe changes in barrier resilience, water retention, and sensitivity. You’ll feel the difference — and your skin will show it.

Why TEWL Matters More Than Your Serum Label

You can buy an expensive hyaluronic acid serum.
But if your skin barrier is leaking, it won’t matter.

That’s why I always ask:
Is your skin holding onto what you give it?
Or is it silently overwhelmed?

In corneotherapy, we stop chasing actives — and start rebuilding the skin’s ability to hold, protect, and repair. That’s how we restore true calm.

Final Thoughts:

Your skin isn’t dry because it’s dehydrated.
It’s dehydrated because it’s defenceless.

TEWL gives us the first clue.
And corneotherapy offers a way back. Begin your healing Journey with us to feel confident in your skin like never before.

References:
Akdeniz M, Gabriel S, Lichterfeld-Kottner A, Blume-Peytavi U, Kottner J. Transepidermal water loss in healthy adults: a systematic review and meta-analysis update. Br J Dermatol. 2018 Nov;179(5):1049-1055. doi: 10.1111/bjd.17025. Epub 2018 Sep 9. PMID: 30022486.

Handeland K, Wakeman M, Burri L. Krill oil supplementation improves transepidermal water loss, hydration and elasticity of the skin in healthy adults: Results from two randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, dose-finding pilot studies. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024; 23: 4285-4294. doi:10.1111/jocd.16513

Klotz, Tanja1,2; Maddern, Guy3; Caplash, Yugesh4; Wagstaff, Marcus1,4. Devices measuring transepidermal water loss of the skin: a systematic review protocol of measurement properties. JBI Evidence Synthesis 19(10):p 2893-2903, October 2021. | DOI: 10.11124/JBIES-20-00468

Roskos KV, Guy RH. Assessment of skin barrier function using transepidermal water loss: effect of age. Pharm Res. 1989 Nov;6(11):949-53. doi: 10.1023/a:1015941412620. PMID: 2594686.

Sindher S, Alkotob SS, Shojinaga MN, Brough HA, Bahnson HT, Chan S, Lack G, Leung DYM, Nadeau KC. Pilot study measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in children suggests trilipid cream is more effective than a paraffin-based emollient. Allergy. 2020 Oct;75(10):2662-2664. doi: 10.1111/all.14275. Epub 2020 Apr 12. PMID: 32176320; PMCID: PMC7951178.

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